Thinning shears, Chucking shears or texturising shears are a specialised type of hair-cutting scissors that are used to reduce the volume of hair and to create a texturing or blending effect. Unlike normal scissors, these shears have teeth on the edge of the pivotal blade, similar to the likes of that seen on a comb.
Blending & Texturing shears are very versatile and with different teeth setups, you can cut anywhere between 40 - 70% of the hair of a client with just one to two cuts. Thinning scissors of this type can add a more natural blend to any given haircut or add a level of texture to improve overall tastefulness of your masterpiece.
We talked with June, a salon owner in Melbourne, about the best texturising thinning scissors for hairdressers:
"I found that it was always harder to find smooth cutting thinners than it was cutting scissors" she said after a bit of thought. "After learning more about the quality difference, I looked at Jaguar, Juntetsu and Yasaka as the best options available because of the Prism teeth and higher quality steel. You can buy a $150 pair of cutting scissors and be happy with them, but you'll want to buy a $200+ pair of thinning if you want the smoothest cuts."
Therefore these teeth aren't just for smiling, these teeth do wonders to peoples hairs, however, how many teeth and why? If you've been on our site for a while, you would have seen thinning scissors with all variations of teeth numbers. As a general rule of thumb, 25 and above are for texturising and blending, whereas, 15 and below are chunk removers!
When handling thick hair, fewer teeth with wider gaps make your job a whole lot easier. Chunk removers are best for curly hair, which normal scissors struggle with, as the name suggests these shears can take big chunks of hair out at once (~40 - 80%). However, one important caveat, Chunk scissors can be difficult to use and if used incorrectly can leave holes in the cut.
Now that we are done with the nitty-gritty of the what thinning shears are, let's get onto how to use them.
While this is not rocket science it is important to brush/comb the hair till it's untangled and smooth. Additionally, it's better to use thinning scissors on dry hair as wet hair tends to stick together, thus reducing the consistency of how much you remove each cut. If the hair that you are working on is curly by nature, try straightening before attempting to use the texturizing shears.
With your shears in hand, separate the blade and place a small portion of hair between the teeth and the cutting blade. Make sure that your shears are roughly three inches above the surface of the scalp and your fingers! never use the shears on the roots or tips of a clients hairs.
Once the hair is idling between your thinning shears excellent edge, hold the scissors on a 45-degree angle, and make small little cuts on all your ends to remove some of the extra bulk. Remember to comb the cutaway hair as you to ensure not too much is removed.
In Addition, if your goal is to remove the overall thickness of your client's hair, rather than just a ‘piecier’ look, place your cutting edge at around the mid-section of your client's hair and alternate making notches into the shaft of the hair. Once again remember to comb out the remaining hair and you're done!