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Slick Back Hair Technique: How To Cut Hair Guide - Japan Scissors

Slick Back Hair Technique: How To Cut Hair Guide

The slick back is one of those styles that never really goes away. It has been around since the 1920s, survived every trend cycle since, and still looks sharp whether you are heading to a wedding or sitting in an office. The reason it endures is simple: it is clean, masculine, and works across most face shapes. If you are a barber, you will cut some version of this style every single week. If you are a bloke trying to get this right at home, the good news is that it is not complicated once you understand the basics.

Male barber cutting customer hair in a dark moody modern studio with pendant lighting

What Is the Slick Back?

The slick back is a men's hairstyle where the hair on top is combed or brushed straight back from the forehead. The sides can be anything from a tight fade to a scissor-cut taper, and the top length varies depending on the variation. Classic slick backs are smooth and shiny with a high-hold product. Modern versions are looser, more textured, and less rigid. The most common variations include:

  • Classic slick back: All hair swept straight back with pomade for a polished, high-shine finish
  • Slick back with undercut: Disconnected short sides with longer top swept back for a sharper contrast
  • Slick back with side part: Hair swept back with a defined part line, slightly more conservative
  • Textured slick back: Hair pushed back loosely with a matte product for a more relaxed, modern feel

Hair Length You Need

You need a minimum of 10 to 12 centimetres on top for a proper slick back. That is roughly four to five inches. Anything shorter and the hair will not stay back without excessive product, and it will look forced rather than natural. The sides depend on your chosen variation. A classic taper needs 3 to 5 centimetres on the sides. An undercut can go down to a grade 1 or 2 on the clippers. If your hair is not long enough yet, tell your barber you are growing it out for a slick back so they can shape the growth rather than just trimming aimlessly.

How to Cut a Slick Back: For Barbers

If you are behind the chair, here is the process. Start with the sides. For a fade, work up from the neckline with your shortest guard and blend through two or three guard lengths. For a scissor taper, use your comb at a consistent angle and cut over comb, keeping the length shorter at the bottom and graduating up.

Move to the top. The key is maintaining length while removing weight. Comb the hair straight back and point cut the ends to remove bulk without losing length. Do not thin the front section, as it needs weight to stay back. Blend the transition zone between the sides and top carefully. If you are doing an undercut, there is no blend, just a clean disconnection. If you are doing a taper, use your shears over comb to create a smooth graduation. Texturise the top lightly with point cutting or thinning scissors to help the hair sit flat without looking heavy.

How to Style at Home: Step by Step

  1. Wash your hair and towel dry until damp, not dripping
  2. Apply a pre-styler such as a sea salt spray or volumising tonic to add grip and texture
  3. Blow-dry backward using a round brush or your fingers to train the hair in the right direction. Medium heat, medium speed. Keep the nozzle pointed down the hair shaft to smooth the cuticle.
  4. Apply your product while the hair is still slightly warm from the dryer. Rub it between your palms and work it through from back to front, then front to back.
  5. Comb into place using a fine-tooth comb for a classic look or your fingers for a more textured finish
  6. Set with hairspray if you need all-day hold, particularly in humid conditions

Product Guide

Product Hold Finish Best For
Pomade (oil-based) High High shine Classic slick back, straight hair
Gel Very high Wet/shiny Maximum hold, thick/coarse hair
Clay Medium-high Matte Textured slick back, fine hair
Wax Medium Natural/satin Loose slick back, wavy hair
Hairspray Variable Invisible Finishing/locking in any style

Slick Back for Different Hair Types

Straight hair is the easiest to work with for a slick back. It naturally wants to lie flat, requires less product, and holds its shape well throughout the day. A medium-hold pomade is usually all you need.

Wavy hair adds natural texture and volume to a slick back, which can look brilliant if you embrace it. Do not fight the wave. Use a matte clay or wax and push the hair back loosely. The texture gives the style personality that dead-straight hair cannot replicate.

Curly hair needs more product, more blow-dry time, and more patience. You will need to blow-dry the hair straight before applying a high-hold pomade or gel. Humidity is the enemy. A strong-hold hairspray as a finisher is essential. The result can look exceptional, but maintaining it through the day takes effort.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does your hair need to be for a slick back?

You need a minimum of 10 to 12 centimetres (four to five inches) on top. Anything shorter will not stay back without heavy product and will look stiff rather than natural. The sides can vary from a close fade to a longer scissor taper.

What is the best product for a slick back?

For a classic shiny slick back, oil-based pomade gives the best result. For a modern textured look, use a matte clay. For very thick or coarse hair that needs maximum control, gel is your best option. The right product depends on your hair type and the finish you want.

Can you slick back curly hair?

Yes, but it requires more work. You need to blow-dry the hair straight first, then apply a high-hold product and comb it back. A finishing hairspray is essential to fight humidity and maintain the shape throughout the day.

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